Savor a Pleasant Few Hours at an Izakaya Bonenkai

Savor a Pleasant Few Hours at an Izakaya Bonenkai

As “bonenkai” (end-of-year) party season rolls around once again, the traditional izakaya becomes a hub of convivial activity. As well as groups of company colleagues seeing out the old year, the izakaya also welcomes a diverse selection of couples, small gatherings of friends, and salarymen winding down after a hard day at the office.
There is perhaps no better place to kick back and relax after a hard day's work. The low murmur of conversation, the clink of glasses, and the friendly atmosphere combine to help the customer forget his worries-if only for an hour or two.
In the area around Yokohama Station there are many such izakaya, where you can spend a pleasant few hours with friends or colleagues. However, as the term "izakaya" covers a variety of establishments, with different types of cuisine, alcoholic beverage, and ambience, the first-time visitor is apt to be a little confused by it all.

On this occasion we sampled the izakaya bonenkai experience a little early—at Hisago, an establishment which specializes in healthy, free-range chicken.
The soft lighting and relaxing low-key ambience make Hisago the perfect spot for relaxing over a drink or two, and its specialties appear to include an impressive array of deliciously succulent chicken dishes. We were treated to the “awaodori” course menu, which features appetizers (hors d’hoeuvres), deep-fried chicken, grilled chicken, stew, rice soup, and dessert. This kind of course menu is standard bonenkai fare.

A lantern-lit welcome
A lantern-lit welcome
Raw tuna and sliced yam starter
Raw tuna and sliced yam starter

Fried chicken and sweet potato
Fried chicken and sweet potato
Chicken-and-leek “negima” and chicken breast fillet (with karamiso sauce)
Chicken-and-leek “negima” and chicken breast fillet
(with karamiso sauce)

Let’s take a look at the dishes on offer from the perspective of the food critic. First comes a starter of raw tuna and thinly sliced sticky yam, topped with seaweed and wasabi sauce, and served in rough-shaped bowls. The collision of textures and flavors prevents any danger that the first beers of the evening might dull the taste buds, while the somber coloration of the food provides a fleeting reminder of the changing colors of fall, just a few short weeks ago.

The next dish to be served consists of tasty morsels of fried chicken and sweet potato served on small four-cornered saucers. A squeeze of lemon helps to bring out the flavor and enhance the contrast between meat and vegetable.
This is followed by twin yakitori skewers of chicken-and-leek "negima" and tender chicken breast fillet with a stripe of dark and slightly bitter "karamiso" sauce.
While these three relatively light dishes are being consumed, a "nabe" stew is gently simmering away on the small table-top gas burner. The earthen-colored pot is crammed with a colorful assortment of vegetables (including carrots, onions, and radish) topped off with tofu and chicken legs. The dish has a certain understated beauty about it, which serves to heighten the diner's anticipation. A spoonful of healthy, fortifying collagen is provided, which dissolves in your bowl as you ladle the hot stew onto it. Although the stew may lack the sharper tastes of the earlier courses, it more than makes up for this with its wholesome, filling texture.

Fair-complexion chicken-and-vegetable stew
Fair-complexion chicken-and-vegetable stew
A spoonful of healthy collagen
A spoonful of healthy collagen

Lip-smacking chicken wings
Lip-smacking chicken wings
Savoring every bite
Savoring every bite

A slight pause is in order, to let us savor this substantial course, and maybe to refill our glasses with beer or sweet shochu.
Chicken wings with gleaming skins are next to arrive, followed by more wooden-skewered yakitori—this time, liver in a tangy dark soy sauce and a piece of “tsukune” mince.
Once the chicken-and-vegetable stew has all been eaten, rice, egg, and green "mitsuba" leaves are added to the remaining stock to make a hot savory soup known as "zosui", which provides welcome warmth.
The final course consists of dessert (on this occasion, small scoops of melon ice cream)-a deliciously sweet contrast to the carnival of chicken, vegetables and rice that has preceded it.

Mince and liver yakitori
Mince and liver yakitori
Rice soup made from the remnants of the stew
Rice soup made from the remnants of the stew

Delicious melon ice cream to finish
Delicious melon ice cream to finish
]Relaxing in the unhurried atmosphere
Relaxing in the unhurried atmosphere

Having eaten every last bite, we thoughtfully finish our drinks and prepare to return to the bustle of the outside world. The staff bid us a friendly farewell, and we promise ourselves that we will return before long. As we emerge into the cold night air and busy side-streets of Yokohama, we feel pleasantly full and thoroughly relaxed. A quiet Japanese tradition—steeped in warmth, care and hospitality—lives on.

Menu

  1. Raw tuna and shredded yam,
  2. Piping-hot deep-fried free-range chicken thighs and sweet potatoes
  3. Chicken breast fillet and chicken-and-leek on skewers
  4. Fair-complexion stew ("awaodori" chicken thighs and vegetables in abundance) *
  5. A spoonful of collagen *
  6. Chicken wings
  7. Homemade chicken meatball and liver on skewers
  8. Rice soup
  9. Hokkaido melon ice cream

* These two items are available exclusively to readers of YCVB trend_reports.
When you make your reservation, please tell the Hisago staff that you read the YCVB trend_reports article. (These items are not part of the regular menu.)

Hisago Yokohama (Free-Range Chicken)
1st Floor, Yokohama Square Bldg. Tsuruya-cho 2-13-2
Kanagawa-ku Yokohama City Kanagawa 221-0835
Tel. & fax: 045-320-2120
Website: http://r.gnavi.co.jp/p460701